I really want to learn to take jumping pictures, and I am having trouble learning how the shutter speed works with aperture, and none of my pictures come out nice. They're either black, or too dark, and time is never frozen. Any suggestions on best settings to acheive my goal?
HEY JEMINI,I don't know the meaning of jumping pictures,but I can make you understand the meaning of aperture and shutter speed how it works,
1>APERTURE?
ans)APERTURE is the amount of light which enters in the cameras photosensitive part .In dslr cameras it can vary up to 22 to1.2 ie(22,17.5,11,7.5,5.5,3.2,2.2.1.8,1.2) it means in 1.2 aperture the light will expose the photosensitive part most but on the contrary 22 aperture will allow the light to be entered least on photosensitive part.(MORE LIGHT MEANS MORE EXPOSURE LESS LIGHT MEANS LESS EXPOSURE)
2>SHUTTER SPEED?
ans)SHUTTER is the thin obstruction between lens and photosensitive part.It actually allows the TIME to expose the photosensitive part by light .shutter speed can vary up to-(10,000 to 1)10,000 means 10,000 of second & 1 means 1 second.The higher the speed the faster your subject can be like a bus,sportsman,car,birds,aeroplane.HIGHER speeds means less time for exposure so increase your aperture also so that optimum light can reach your camera.THE optimum shutter speed will be around 125ms.
3>FILM SPEED OR ISO?
ans)It is the amount of sensitivity of the photosensitive part,in the digital cameras we call it iso.It can vary up to 50 to 3200.If you increase the iso it will increase the sensitivity in same exposures and in same aperture.IF you go on increasing the iso it can create irritating grains, if you print large pictures.
COMBINING THE THREE ASPECTS CREATES A GOOD PHOTOGRAPHS.
IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE TO INCREASE BOTH APERTURE,SHUTTER SPEED & ISO IN adequate proportions for taking so called jumping pictures;).
PL Z reply back if this post rendered any help towards you.Bye :).
I wrote a section on my website about shutter speed, aperture, ISO and how they are used to control exposure.
To freeze motion, you need to have a high shutter speed, a good tip is set your camera to Tv mode, so that you choose the shutter speed and the camera will choose the aperture setting.
Be careful of the background and points of focus as this cause the camera to give incorrect exposure. If you camera supports bracketing, then you can shot a number of shots for the same image and choose the best exposed one.
Also you camera may focus on the background, instead of your subject, so it may be better to select a single point of focus.
Jemini, All of the above can help with freezing the subject in mid air but a couple of techniques can help as well I suspect one of your problems is that you aren't using your autofocus properly which creates a large lag time before the camera achieves focus. Even then you need to anticipate "peak action", when the motion is stopped going up and before it has started going down. You might also try "panning" . The camera follows the action so that if anything is blurry its the background not the subject and you can control this to some extent by controling DOF. Digital cameras for th most part have a slow response time from pressing the shutter to when the image is recorded, you need to plan for whatever that is with your camera and learn to anticipate!