The friend Deb Sandidge I mentioned earlier has a book on IR Photography - http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Infrared-Photography-Photo-Workshop/d...
I am about 1/2 way through it and it is a very good book. Lots of examples & technical explanations about IR light.
Check it out :)
Carlton
It's not the light meter display; anything visible to a human being would fog regular film. Some Canon film SLRs use an internal IR light to count sprocket holes for the film advance, but in the cases I've seen it really only fogs the area of film where the holes are anyway. It ruins maybe a mm or so of usable film along one edge, which is easy to crop out. Other cameras may have something like this also, but I've mainly only heard of it with auto-advance, electronic, EOS FSLRs.
I've heard that some film processing machines use internal IR lights too. Never run into one at any of the labs I've used over the last 20 years, but probably worth asking about if dropping of the film.
If your going to be a photographer looking for effects and manipulation to just sharper pictures....learn photoshop....Become a NAPP (national association of photoshop proffesionals) member and spend time in the tutorial section for photographers. Their you will find the most knowledgable info on how to take and manipulate your photo's into an IR type image. Its also alot cheaper than spending the money on cameras and lens for that sole purpose.
Im in IR and UV since the very begining... For best results you should get IR/UV FujiFilm IS PRO or S5(UV/IR) midification or just convert your camera - www.lifepixel.com. They not only can remove lowpass/uv-ir blocking glass off the sensor but also can calibrate camera's focusing in IR light... yes focus is a BIG problem in IR shooting, it depends on almost every lens, some lenses have IR mark to correct focusing distance but most hasn't so you have to experiment to find out how much to correct focusing distance... The other way for bodies is to get OLD one like Nikon D70(i have such) or Kodak DCS Pro 14n(also have it). At about same lighting conditions look at time exposures: D200 - 180-240 sec, D80 - 70-80sec, D70 - 6-10 sec, Kodak - 2-6sec... see the difference? There are also different IR filters... I use Hoya R72, Hoya RM90, B+W 093. R72 is as i call it 'softest' IR, 093 is in the middle and RM 90 'hardest' every one of them 'got opened' at different IR wavelenght... and the results differs... examples of R72 - http://www.joz2k.eu/infra/111.jpg and same with RM90 - http://www.joz2k.eu/infra/112.jpg. if you are interested: IR photos here: http://www.joz2k.eu/infra/infrared_11.html, IR coloured using 'channel swap' here: http://www.joz2k.eu/ircolor/ircolor_02.html and UV photos here: http://www.joz2k.eu/uv/ultraviolet_01.html. If you or someone else have questions feel free to e-mail me at: info@joz2k.eu I'll be glad to be helpfull... wish you success in IR shooting
Joz
"Go Cowboys !!! I grew up near Dallas and was friends with many Cowboy players in the early 80's (Tony Dorsett, Too Tall Jones, Drew Pearson, etc..) I also like the expression of the guitarist on the left..."