"Thanks Michelle"
First things before you shot
Hi - I'm interested in what you do just before you shot .... ie -person indoors outdoors landscape - object ? It will be interesting to me what pattern you do ;-)
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Greg maklae on -
The first thing I was taught, was to look at the landscape scene with one eye closed. This will create a more two dimensional image, the way the camera will see it. Then, Is the lighting right, or do I have to come back at a different time. I try to shoot from just before sun rise to an hour or two after, depending on the season, or late in the afternoon to sunset. Then I ask what is the major point I want to capture, the waterfall, the rocks, the foliage, etc. If it is moving water, I want my exposure to be 1/2 second or longer, so I adjust my ISO and f/stop. Do I need a polarizer or graduated neutral density filter. Typically, I try to get a slightly wider field of view than I think I need, and crop later. It is easier than going back because you missed something. What is my depth of field. Do I want to hyperfocal, or is a soft background better. At what angle do i want the camera, close to the ground or higher up. Then I may take 3 to 5 images at different shutter speeds, in case HDR is required. One other thing, mount the camera on a solid tripod. I use a SLIK with a 20 pound capacity.
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Permalink Reply by robert gordon on -
thank u louise
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Permalink Reply by robert gordon on
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thank u for that iwill take evey thing i am keen to learn it takes time but thank u
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Permalink Reply by nathan mccreery on -
If you've already arrived at a composition that's pleasing to you, physically scan the edges of the frame with your eye and look for intrusions, things that shouldn't be there such as out of character weeds, blades of grass, pampers, beer bottles etc or other items that will be a distraction when you look at the final image. If you'll have to "Photoshop" them out later on it's best to crop them out now. Double check the exposure to be sure that the scene, as presented, has a range of tones that will reproduce in your finished print. Be sure you have enough depth of field to hold sharpness throughout the photograph and make the exposure. Frankly, if these procedures are done correctly there will be no need to bracket and go through all that foolishness. Using HDR as some have suggested is a wonderful tool, but frankly it is overused and will begin to give your photographs a "plastic" appearance. It is not a universal solution to every photographic problem. Many times (most times) simply getting your exposure right in the first place, alleviates the need to use HDR.Try a practice assignment. On the next 24 or 36 photographs you make resolve that you will do everything you can to get it right on the first exposure and make only one of each image with no up or down bracketing. Down load the images to your computer and see how accurate you were in your assessment.
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Permalink Reply by Greg maklae on
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Only a fool would not bracket
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Permalink Reply by nathan mccreery on
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There you go again. You call names and then when you get called out you get all steamed. If you want to learn the definition of a fool it is the one who refuses to learn, which you are adept at. When someone with the skills addresses the issue you refuse to look at it and learn. The proof of the "puddin is in the eatin"; look at my portfolio. If you develop the skills, which you apparently haven't, bracketing becomes un-necessary and a waste of time. All I did was suggest an exercise to the member that will help her in learning to control exposure and get a correct exposure first time. Guaranteed; I can go out with one piece of film, black and white or color, and get the correct exposure. Same holds for digital and the only reason to make a bunch of photographs is if the dynamic range of the scene exceeds the ability of the media to record it.
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Permalink Reply by Greg maklae on
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Professional photographers I study with ALWAYS bracket the shot with as many as 9 exposures. You only have one chance to get it right, so it is best to up the odds. Sorry the rest of the world is not as good as you, and cannot be sure the perfect image is collected in one shot
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Permalink Reply by nathan mccreery on
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I have noticed that when people run out of gas on their argument they resort to name calling. I don't know who "the best in the world are" according to you so that's a silly argument. Just understand, there are a lot of people on this site who are very willing to teach and share years of experience and wisdom because they have years of wisdom and experience to share; you don't. I know what will work and what won't simply because I've been doing this for so long. Your "experts" may make as many as nine exposures of one subject but if they are any good it isn't because they don't know what the needed exposure factor is. On the other hand if they are just muddling around in the dark hoping something works, then their great photographs are more a result of dumb luck that artistic and photographic calculations. In that case I question that they really are the "best in the world" and I think you're blowing smoke.
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Permalink Reply by Greg maklae on
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You are so hung up on your greatness, you do not have the ability to teach others. Leave the teaching to those who know how.
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Permalink Reply by nathan mccreery on
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It is apparent that you are unteachable. I've had people like you in class before, both in a workshop setting and in classroom and it is always a waste. Never interrupt a strong opinion with the truth. I am done with you in this discussion. And you are blowing a lot of smoke. The problem with ignorance is that you don't know that you don't know.
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Permalink Reply by CameraClicker on -
"Only a fool would not bracket"
Once upon a time there was slide film. Great stuff, you can show your photo to a whole room full of people at once. But, you get one pass at the photo, either you frame it correctly and expose it properly or you are using another frame. And you have to realize at the time that it did not work out because it will be a week before you see the results.
Digital is great, a second exposure is free, and you get to see what you took right away! You can check to see if your subject blinked! You can look at the histogram to see if you got the exposure correct! You can even tell from the histogram if your camera can handle the dynamic range or you need an extra exposure or two. You can adjust the exposure, and contrast, and you can crop!
If you are shooting a scene with a high dynamic range, bracketing and HDR software make some sense but I have seen a few HDR photos I thought were great and lots I thought were terrible. Unless you are trying to get both the inside and outside of a building (or a cave), without using a flash, you rarely need multiple exposures and then two or three are enough.
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