tips on manual focus pls.
hello everyone,
I recently got my first Dslr a canon 450d and I'm a novice slr/dslr user , and usually I use the auto focus or the AF to focus on to something, specially when taking candid shots, fast actions and such. But in some situations like shooting in low light conditions, when there is not enough contrast, or at night the AF tends to focus on something else or sometimes it tells me that the correct focus is achieved but everything is blurred. There was even a time when I was trying to make a portrait a baby, did the auto focus on the eyes but accidentally it focuses on the baby's eye lashes, the eyes where a little blurry(my aperture that time might also be the problem) things like that. I'm having a hard time using the manual focus, sometimes I use the live view mode,then zoom in to make sure that the focus is correct but I think I'm wasting a lot of time when I do that,I want to learn fast and accurate manual focusing by just using the viewfinder , is that possible?, if there are ways, tips/techniques you know to make manual focusing easier/faster through the view finder could you please share? is the blinking red thing on the viewfinder accurate when using manual focus? If practice is the only way, are there specific things I should do? what should I watch out for?
THANK YOU
I think I'm not the only one having problems with manual focus, they can also learn what you have to say again thanks =]
I recently got my first Dslr a canon 450d and I'm a novice slr/dslr user , and usually I use the auto focus or the AF to focus on to something, specially when taking candid shots, fast actions and such. But in some situations like shooting in low light conditions, when there is not enough contrast, or at night the AF tends to focus on something else or sometimes it tells me that the correct focus is achieved but everything is blurred. There was even a time when I was trying to make a portrait a baby, did the auto focus on the eyes but accidentally it focuses on the baby's eye lashes, the eyes where a little blurry(my aperture that time might also be the problem) things like that. I'm having a hard time using the manual focus, sometimes I use the live view mode,then zoom in to make sure that the focus is correct but I think I'm wasting a lot of time when I do that,I want to learn fast and accurate manual focusing by just using the viewfinder , is that possible?, if there are ways, tips/techniques you know to make manual focusing easier/faster through the view finder could you please share? is the blinking red thing on the viewfinder accurate when using manual focus? If practice is the only way, are there specific things I should do? what should I watch out for?
THANK YOU
I think I'm not the only one having problems with manual focus, they can also learn what you have to say again thanks =]
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Lori Aull on -
Question; you've mentioned that you play mostly with manual. Have you tried auto - with the half-pressing of the shutter button?
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Permalink Reply by Jan Michael Vincent V Castillo on -
yes ma'am, my sincere apologies for my bad english, the auto-focus is what I usually use (one shot, AIservo when the subject is moving and AI focus for combination of both, but mostly I use the oneshot ) , the auto-focus is great but in low light conditions it doesn't function properly like some experiences I stated above.
The day I posted this query was the day I decided to turn of the auto-focus function =] , I think If I use the manual focus I would have better control with the photos I'll be taking but, when I use it, just turning the focus ring alone takes too much time, and with just using the view finder, I cant really determine if I achieved the correct focus or not, then I would open the live view function, zoom in with the live view, and turn the focus ring again, it takes me a lot of time just focusing, by that span of time, I would be missing a lot of moments that I should have captured.
by just using the viewfinder alone,Is it possible to be fast yet accurate when focusing manually? are there techniques or tips you guys know to make manual focusing fast and accurate or master it at some level LOL =] ?
are routines that should be practiced to improve with manual focus? please share them with us?
thanks ^_^
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Permalink Reply by Lori Aull on
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great here is what I do....
In situations you describe; {low lighting} I plant it on a tripod. Then I hit manual and focus on a stationary subject close to the ideal subject {in the case you mentioned the eye}, switch it over to auto... half press until I find my focus goal. If and when I get as close as I can... {an eyelash, a blankie near the eye... etc...} then I go into manual again and play with the focus. The shots are free. So feel free to play. {my suggestion}
If I'm doing a fast moving target. {sports, high flying birds, hummingbirds etc....} I auto focus on a stationary object where I expect the subject to be. {it's amazing really how predictible how subjects can be....} then I go back and hit auto again move the camera in the path I expect them to go while consistanly auto-focusing......
I hope that helps. I did not mean to sound like I was asking you a dumb question. You obviously know your stuff. I just wanted to start at the basics. Consider the rest of the suggestions and try this method... I bet there are a dozen ways you can get your shots but you need to find the one your most comfortable with.
Good luck. Lori
Oh p.s. If you get an eyelash... play with contrast in your software. Often that will firm up the eye without having to play with sharpness. You might find "contrast" a dream in fixing a slightly-off focus shot.
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Permalink Reply by Lori Aull on
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p.s. no.. the situation you descibed is not an easy shot. :o) It may be a worthwhile shot tho. Good luck bro... if you need more details on my method feel free to ask.
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Permalink Reply by Jan Michael Vincent V Castillo on
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will do Lori, contrast ha? I'll keep that in mind for sure, thanks =]
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Permalink Reply by Matt Needham on -
I have installed split ring focusing screens in my DSLRs. These are not available from Canon; I got mine from www.katzeyeoptics.com and www.slrdaren.com These help some with manual focusing, but DSLRs viewfinders are just small, dim, and hard to see through. I understand why with APS-C format. The sensor is smaller so the viewfinder is too, but even with my 35mm 5D the viewfinder does not compare to something like my Nikon FM2n 35mm SLR. It's just bigger, brighter, and more clear. When I switched from film I was using only manual focusing cameras, and wanted to continue manually focusing, but after some practice I found the AF to be more accurate than I more often. I have become an AF convert. There are some things that many pros and enthusiasts do to increase AF performance.
Use a fast lens. Focusing is done at max aperture. The bigger the aperture the more light it has to work with.
In your custom function you can move the AF from the shutter release to a different button. This keeps the camera from accidentally re-focusing when the shutter button is tapped. There is an AF lock button that does the same, but I find it easier just to give the AF it's own button than to hold the AF lock button when I'm shooting.
Use the center AF point. The center AF point is usually of higher ability than the rest. I use the center AF point, and recompose. This can cause problems in some situations because of arcing the plane of focus. For instance it might not work so well in extreme close-ups.
Use a flash with AF assist. With the newer Canon DSLRs there is a flash control menu that allows the AF assist to function, but the actual flash can be turned off, if you are shooting available light. I use a Canon ST-E2 IR flash remote. It's for triggering flashes, but I most often just use it for the AF assist.
Back to manual focusing: look up "zone focusing". This is using a DOF scale/chart/calculator and the focusing scale on the lens to set focus. No viewfinder necessary. The problem is that you do need some way to keep track of DOF. They don't usually have DOF scales on zoom lenses, and even the ones on DSLR prime lenses are so small as to be almost useless. I don't know why the manufacturer's don't include DOF calculators that would display on the LCD. It should be simple enough. I've hacked one of my point-n-shoots with CHDK, and now it has a digital DOF calculator, and I love it!
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Permalink Reply by Jan Michael Vincent V Castillo on
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oh my those things are expensive sir Matt,
=]
custom button for AF,use the center AF point and recompose, got it.
so AF is gooD, one just needs to get use to it , an understanding of it and its limitations, I'm gonna try that asap, this is what I got while looking up zone focusing http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html will read it more and will do more research about it after I finish posting my reply, like Alan I also thought my eyesight was getting bad or my cameras view finder is broken.
I consider all you guys my teachers,
thanks you sir
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Permalink Reply by nathan mccreery on -
That is the reason (one of several) that I prefer manual focus on critical material, such as the babies eyes. But then I worked with manual focus for so many years, it honestly is almost second nature to the degree that I do it without conscious thought. While manual focus is possible with my Nikkor lenses the viewing screen, while it is brighter than my Hasselblads doesn't seem to be real sharp so focus isn't very precise and the mechanism on the lens is way too loose. Perhaps some camera manufacturer will see the error of their ways and offer true manual focusing (hah).
I am going to read Matts response more closely, he may address some of those issues. But Matt, I still want a square digital back for my Hassy's!
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Permalink Reply by Jan Michael Vincent V Castillo on
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"it honestly is almost second nature to the degree that I do it without conscious thought"
I definitely love to be like that someday,and if I cant, I'll keep trying,
, so practice is key and use it specially when working on critical material, I'll make it a habit to shoot with manual focusing sir Nathan,
thanks to all of you who posted here,
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Permalink Reply by Matt Needham on
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The great thing about the split ring screens is that they show if you are in focus with both manual focus and AF.
If I can see the detail enough, like a close up of a face, I do tend to use manual focus. Canon brand lenses don't even require switching from AF to manual focus to manually adjust. But if I'm not zoomed in on the detail I have a hard time telling whether it's in focus or not. The situation I really seem to have a problem focusing (both manually and AF) in is very wide angle without subject matter close to the camera.
Canon offers a cheaper manual focusing screen (I think in the $40 range). I've never had a chance to use one. It doesn't have anything like a split ring. The image is supposed to "snap" into focus. It's meant to be used with fast lenses. Of course they only offer it for a few models.
AF is a skill just like manual focusing. The more you practice the better you get. The majority of my shots are low light weddings, low light live music, or low light family and friends, and I've been quite pleased with all my Canon DSLRs (20D, 40D, and 5D). I've read lots of articles about how their AF sucks. That just gets me excited, because when I finally purchase one of those DSLRs that is reputed to have great AF I'm gonna be living large!
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Permalink Reply by Matt Needham on
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I would love a viewfinder as bright as a Nikon FM2n. Why can't I get that on a 35mm DSLR? Of course I used to lament "Why can't my Hassy viewfinder be bright as my P67II viewfinder?" I don't know why a bright, clear viewfinder isn't a top priority?
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