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I don't know which Neutral Density filter to buy. Color graduated, dark gray or light gray.  I know what they are used for, but not what kind to buy.  I want to shoot landscape, especially water.

I need your help on this one, and would highly appreciate what ever info. you can give.

                                              thanks

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In a nut shell:

If you shoot landscape I think you will first need to purchase a ND "graduated" filter which will help you to better balance your exposures (sky versus land).

Also, a skylight filter (a colour correction filter) will help with your sky exposures.

A polariser filter is a must; this filter suppresses the strong reflections coming from different subjects (like water, windows, etc.) and also enhances your photographs, sometimes and used effectively can have a dramatic effect on your photographs

Also, a set of ND filters would help you in different situations (buy different stops values e.g. ND9 ND6, etc.). The ND filter can help for example when you want to achieve a long shutter speed in daylight by stopping down your exposures.

So, we start from here, but have a look on internet, google each type of filter, see examples given and see what they can do.

Ion

www.photoion.co.uk
www.londondigitalphotographycourses.co.uk
Thank you very much for the information. I appreciate you taking the time.
You are welcome.
Ion
Thank you for the information. This sounds like a fun thing to do, which I intend to check out.
It seems like I am always the odd man out but here goes. I think the purchase of a split neutral density filter is a waste of money, especially with digital media. If you encounter a scene, and you will, that has more tones than your camera can record, using digital, you simply make two, or more exposures. One for the land and another for the sky, etc. then blend them in Photoshop. I, personally, despise the use of these filters (split neutral density) because, unless they are used VERY expertly, it is always obvious that they were used. This is especially true when colored ND filters are used. When we used either chrome film, especially in 35mm, or color negative film these filters could be an enormous help, especially when used by a very experienced and expert photographer. The advent of digital cameras and media have obviated the advantage of these filters. I have several of them that are of the square variety in various densities from 1/2 stop and heavier. I never used them and spent several hundred dollars on them, and I still use film. Look at my portfolio on this site and decide for yourself. I used no filtration on any of them except for a UV-15 on all color work outdoors, occasionally a polarizer, and contrast modifiers such as a red, green, yellow, etc when the photograph is black and white.

I just think that digital techniques and media have made these filters unnecessary.
In this case you are not alone, Nathan. I have UV filters on about half my lenses and circular polarizer filters that fit all but one lens.

The concept of a neutral density filter is intriguing and a couple of years ago I asked for some at a local camera store. They told me they did not carry them since everything went digital. So, I still don't have them. A quick check at another local camera store's web page shows the ones Jim is speaking of for about $70 for diameters to fit my lenses. I guess they would be useful to take photos of waterfalls and fountains with silky water so I may still pick some up to try out one day.

The split neutral density filter has never seemed like a good idea because even with the graduated variety you need a fairly straight/flat horizon to take advantage of it. It makes more sense to take multiple exposures and combine them, unless you are by an ocean and taking the horizon.
I absolutely agree. If someone needed a filter to extend exposure times to several seconds, or longer, it makes more sense to me to get a Polarizer or two. At least then the filter would be able to serve double duty. I have found that having a longer exposure times has never been a problem to me. If you wait until the sun is lower in the sky the exposure times will almost always be longer. Of course, my next counsel in that circumstance would be to take the camera off 6400 ISO, back down to something that's not insane, like 100 or even lower if the camera will do it. It's like I tell my students. Buying a new filter or lens will hardly ever solve the problem, or lead to the solution to the problem, that you are facing.
Thank you do much for this information. Also thank you for taking the time to respond.
Thank you for that information, and for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.
You have a good point. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond.
I will check out your photos.
I find this topic very interesting. I have played around with the idea of using the graduated neutral density filters but so far have not done so...first due to the fact that I would need to purchase the cokin filters as they seem to have the widest selection and then of course the cokin holder etc etc and second, I think there would be a huge learning curve to getting the right results. For myself, I think that a circular polarizing filter is the most important filter out there and I wouldn't be without one. I also have an ND8 in my camera bag just in case I come across a waterfall or moving water and can't get a long enough exposure even with the smallest apeture available on my lens. I have to admit in a years time frame I've used it once.

There is a however a photographer by the name of Chris Gin who swears by the Graduated Netural Density and Neutral Density filters; I have been following his work for a couple years now and would recognize his work instantly. I greatly admire this gentleman and and his amazing eye, style and composition for New Zealand landscapes and seascapes. It was due to his work that I considered the cokin filters.

The following is a link to an interview Chris did with Lightstalking

http://www.lightstalking.com/landscape-photography-for-the-serious-...
Thank you for taking the time to respond, and for the information.
I will check out Chris Gin's work.

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