My New 50D

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Stephen Holmes on February 3, 2010 at 5:04am

I've no idea what you're level is, so I'll just take a shot at some suggestions. I guess before dismissing the 50D it's important to understand how you were using it at the time. Was is set for Manual Mode(M), Full Automatic (landscape etc), or semi-automatic/creative (Av, Tv, P)?

With respect to the colour correctness there are two possibilities. What was your White Balance set to? What was your picture style setting set to? For me, I personally shoot in RAW all of the time, leaving white balance set to CLOUDY and picture style to Faithful. As my final image is RAW, I can modify these easily when I upload them into the Canon tools or into Lightroom.

If you're shooting JPEG, or in any of the automatic modes, try to use the the white balance modes for the conditions you're shooting in, cloudy usually works for me because I'm in Ireland :-), but if you're in sunnier climates then set appropriately. Also, experiment with the Picture Style settings, again, Faithful has always done the job for me for my own style of shooting, your mileage may vary though!

With respect to crispness, your lens will have a sweetspot 2-stops over it's widest aperture (typically, though not always), as this lens seems to be an f3.5 to 6.3, it's sharpness sweet spot would probably be somewhere up from f5.6. Now on the Canon 50D,

Next, how was your autofocus configured, single point AF or all points active?

The other thing to watch is exposure (particularly in the creative zones Av, Tv, P), if the camera is on ON position 2, then the dial on the back increases or lowers exposure compensation and can affect your final image (blowing out highlights or losing detail in the shadows), and you may want to make sure it sits in ON position 1 instead.

From the review of your lens (http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tamron_18-270_3p5-6p3_vc_n15/pa...) if this is in fact your lens, it does seem to indicate that you will get softness at it's maximum length, and this coupled with a cropped sensor multiplier (1.6x on the 50D) may leave your images looking less than crisp and in need of some sharpening in Photoshop afterwards, but this is true of any camera using this lens.

Apart from this technical stuff, and perhaps always leaving your IS on, there are a lot of great articles out there on maintaining sharpness. If you need some links that I've used personally, don't hesitate to ask!

FWIW, I love my 50D and you can, if you like, check out some of my work at http://gallopinggreen.com

Permalink Reply by Richard Wright on February 5, 2010 at 6:47am

Many thanks for the reply, Stephen. Lots to think about there.

Last year I went on a one day workshop led by a professtional gardens photographer. He encouraged us to get off Auto and onto Manual. That was before I bought my 50D. When I first used the 50D I stayed with full Auto for a few days and then shifted over to Av and full Manual but I hadn't really mastered controlling the exposure. White balance I left on Auto.

So far I have been shooting in JPEG but feel I should move over to RAW and also be prepared to do some work using the Canon software and not expect everything to happen inside the camera. Thanks for the tip about using the ON position 1 - I'll try that next time I go out to shoot.

As far as the lens is concerned I guess I'll just have to work withing its limitations for the time being but also test out the camera using my Tamron 90mm 2.8 to see if that improves things. Then it will be a question of carefully choosing my next lens to maximise the 50D's capabilities.

Yes, the links to articles on sharpness will be very helpful

Many thanks for taking the time to reply. When I have some example shots of better quality I plan to put them up for comment on here.

Thanks again.

Permalink Reply by Stephen Holmes on February 5, 2010 at 7:04am

I'll put those links together for you. BTW, there's a rather nifty book for the 50D that I'd recommend for getting to grips with the specific features it offers. Though I've had mine for over a year now, I still refer back to this when I can't quite remember where the mirror lockup function is :-) Hey, it happens!!!

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EOS-Digital-Field-Guide/dp/0470455594

Cheers
Steve

Permalink Reply by Marcia C on May 13, 2010 at 3:22pm

You should definitely go with the 7 D if it is in your price range

I posted some information on both of them in your earlier post at the bottom of the Canon page

Permalink Reply by Richard Crowe on February 3, 2010 at 7:52am

IMO, the "super range" zoom lenses just do not provide the quality imagery achieved with lenses of less extreme ranges. When reading lens reviews, one must realize that many web sites that publish "reviews" are simply regurgitating the manufacturer's specifications and advertising hoopla. However, Photozone http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/412-tamron_18270_3563vc_canon?sta... does indicate that your lens might have resolution problems at longer focal lengths when used with a camera of 15 megapixel resolution like the 50D; and when shooting at wider apertures.

I would venture a guess that some of the fault is with the indian rather than the arrow. Normally, imagery straight out of the camera using the default settings is not the best, You CAN set up your 50D (or any other DSLR to get crisp JPEG images straight out of the camera but, IMO, the best way to shoot is to shoot in RAW and correct your images in post processing. You can open RAW images and post process your work using any number of programs. Canon supplies a pretty decent software RAW conversion and photo editing program with its DSLR cameras.

Basic digital post processing is not at all complicated and the results can be excellent.

There could be another possible problem impacting your images. Your 18-270mm Tamron lens has a fairly slow aperture when it is extended out to 270mm. As a rule of thumb, the shutter speed of a lens should be "AT LEAST" 1/focal length. However, when using a 1.6x camera, the minimum shutter speed should be AT LEAST 1/focal length X 1.6. That would mean that you need a shutter speed of around 1/432 second (round that off to 1/500 second or so to be sure of sharp imagery.

I stress the words AT LEAST because that would be the minimum hand holding speed under optimum conditions.

There are times, in low light situations when you cannot achieve 1/500 second or so with a lens that has a maximum aperture of f/6.3. In that case, you have three choices to achieve sharper imagery, use a shorter focal length; use a camera support such as a tripod or monopod; use a higher ISO.

Without seeing your images, I cannot give a more succinct reply.

Permalink Reply by Richard Wright on February 5, 2010 at 6:54am

Thanks for the comments, Richard.

The review I looked at was, I think, dpReview. When I next 'invest' in a lens I think I shall have to conside 2.8 across the range. I take your point about Indian/arrow. I need to master all that the 50D will do and just get out and take more shots, putting some up for comment/criticism.

Yes, I think shooting in RAW is the way to go. My friend I went out shooting with recently (the one with the Nikon who consistently took better shots all day) always uses RAW. I shall also have to watch the ISO on dull days and consider taking a tripod out next time.

Many thanks for your comments, I'll have to see how I get on next time we go out to shoot.

Permalink Reply by Deborah Marie Butcher on February 3, 2010 at 8:05am

It is your lens, not the camera. Get or borrow a Canon lens and then see how your photos are. The better the glass, the better your photos will be.

Permalink Reply by Richard Wright on February 5, 2010 at 6:55am

It's a bit early (costwise) to invest in another lens but I'll bear that in mind. Thanks, Deborah.

Permalink Reply by Stephen Holmes on February 5, 2010 at 7:07am

FWIW, the lenses I have that give me cracking images (sharpess, colour etc) are

EF 50mm f1.4
EF 24-105mm IS f4 L
EF 70-200mm IS f2.8 L

I have only ever tried 1 non Canon lens, a Tokina 400mm and it was notably software than the Canon gear. I think it's a fairly standard recommendation to invest in glass before bodies (well, in my part of the world anyway) :-)

Permalink Reply by Ed Harp on February 14, 2010 at 3:59pm

One thing to consider is how long you have had your 50D verses how long your friend has had his D80. Perhaps even more crucial would be a comparison of the lenses used as well. I believe a lot of the comments here so far, though there are many have said a lot that can contribute to why your images have been less sharp than the other camera's results. Of course, it's all speculation as to why your 50D did not perform up to your expectations.

As Stephen had said and I have always agreed, that the quality of glass is of greater concern than the camera used.

I have a 10D that is a 6.3 MP and records as sharp as anything I've seen. I also have the 50D and it also performs tack sharp with excellent color. I would say that the advantages of a 15 MP sensor verses a 6.3 MP sensor are many. First the color is actually much better. The ability to meter and expose in darker situations is perhaps the greatest advantage besides the increased resolution.

You have an excellent camera. Personally I would own three lenses in place of the Tamron 18-270mm. I've always bought Canon lenses and have an attraction for L lenses. These I own: EF 17-40mm F4L, EF 24-105mm f/4L, EF 70-200mm F/2.8L. Now I know that you're talking about $3000 in lenses here verses $600 on the Tamron lens. It's taken me many years to come to this conclusion. It all depends how critical you are and what kind of results you're after.

The 18-270 Tamron lens is a great lens for a kick around all purpose lens. As you get more serious you will have an increasing discerning eye and pallet for better results which will undoubtedly result in better glass.

Permalink Reply by Richard Wright on February 16, 2010 at 10:35am

Thanks for the reply, Ed. My friend has had his Nikon D80 for a few years now; I would guess at 3 or 4. I bought my 50D last November and am still getting accustomed to all the controls and settings; I guess that is just a question of practise and critical reviewing of results. On our recent shoots my friend used a Sigma 120-400 4.5-5.6 VR for the birds and his Nikon 18-200 4.5-5.6 VR for the buildings.

There is a message coming across loud and clear from various contributors. That is that the quality of the lenses used is paramount to getting results that will be appreciated by the discerning viewer and competition judges. I think I am going to have to accept that my Tamron 18-270 just isn't going to cut it on that basis. I shall have to use it just as a day-to-day walk around lens and try to use it on its middling range, watch the speeds in relation to the focal length, and use a tri/mono pod.

As you say, quality glass is expensive.

Thanks again for taking the time to consider my post and for your thoughts.

Permalink Reply by Sean on February 19, 2010 at 5:32pm

Are you shooting in faithful, setting or some other setting?

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