T2i exposure bracketing.

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Gary Vernon on February 4, 2012 at 4:18pm

There is a list here of bracketing capabilities for Canon models,

the T2i will manage just 3 which is part of the reason i opted for Nikon with an auto bracket range up to 9.

http://hdr-photography.com/aeb.html

Permalink Reply by raymond catedral on February 4, 2012 at 4:19pm

Keep in mind that you cannot do bracketing (AEB) in any of the auto modes. You must use one of the "creative" modes. When you're in one of the creative modes, when you press menu, you'll get a second "camera" menu. AEB is the first option of the camera2 menu. You can select the gap between each exposure with the AEB option. Using the Exposure compensation when in the camera mode will slide the entire bracket up or down.

Permalink Reply by Stephen Joe Payne on February 4, 2012 at 4:21pm

I don't have a T2i but I have both a Canon EOS 7D and an EOS 5D Mark II.  Three is all I can take with those cameras.  Why would you want to take more?  That's what a bracket is: One lower, one higher and one on the exposure.  You can change the width of the bracket so that you are either narrower or wider.  I've used that but let me suggest one of Brian Peterson's books, such as "Understanding Exposure" in which he places emphasis on manual settings using the correct exposure.  Reading and then studying that book has been helpful to me on making some shots recently.  If I don't have time, I go to P and shoot and take what I get but if I have time, I get the best shot I can.  If I do bracket, it's based on that shot I just took so, again, why would you need more than three?  Stephen

Permalink Reply by Joe Konz on February 4, 2012 at 4:25pm

Jared, in Canon's line, you'll find bracketing of more than 3 frames only in 1D series bodies (5 and 7 frames are available), which means the T2i does NOT allow for more than 3 bracketed images. The 1D series is at the top of Canon's line for small DSLRs, and therefore they are extremely pricey. Check out the following link and scroll down to the 1D series section. It explains the various stop increments available in those bodies: http://www.pointsinfocus.com/2010/12/everything-you-never-wanted-to...

Permalink Reply by Gary Vernon on February 4, 2012 at 4:45pm

There's always been a solution for the auto bracket 'challenged' models in the Canon range

the problem is it's $329.00

http://www.promotesystems.com/products/Promote-Control.html

Permalink Reply by Jared Weaver on February 5, 2012 at 9:22am

It's cheaper than a 1D or a new Nikon! Ill have to remember to pick one of these up soon.

Permalink Reply by Jared Weaver on February 4, 2012 at 4:47pm

Ugh that sucks! I'll never find a reason to own a 1D series camera. Hopefully Canon will wise up and add that as a feature to their rumored 5D MK3.

Permalink Reply by Diane Dubreuil Dugas on February 5, 2012 at 7:29am

Thank you Garry, I think that for only $329.00 Promote Control is the solution, need to buy one:)

Permalink Reply by Don Weber on February 12, 2012 at 12:47pm

Hi,

I was familiarizing myself with the AEB feature of the T2i this weekend, and was just using -2 to +2 steps.  Is this step normally used, or do folks tend to go with a more narrow range, like -1 to +1 for instance? 

Don in TX

Permalink Reply by Jared Weaver on February 12, 2012 at 3:32pm

It all depends on the dynamic range if the scene, if you are shooting for HDR that is. 

Permalink Reply by Richard Crowe on March 19, 2012 at 9:24am

Bracketing has been a tool of photographers ever since the film days.  National Geographic photographers were fond of bracketing exposures because the Kodachrome film they used had such a narrow exposure latitude. Non-professional photographers usually could not afford to throw away two shots out of every three exposures but, The National Geographic film budget was uvirtually unlimited. 

 

Three shot auto bracketing really means two different things.

 

First on all cameras, it means than one shot is at over what the meter reads, one shot is at what the meter reads and one shot at less than what the meter reads. Some cameras allow two or more over and two or more under; as well as the one as the meter reads. The three shots can be used to nail down exposure in chancy situations or can be used for HDRI shooting. The AEB of more than three frames is usually reserved for HDRI compositing. The photographer can select the amount of over and under exposure that the bracketing will provide.

 

However, all Canon DSLR cameras will, when AEB is selected and burst mode is also selected, will shoot three bracketed exposures and then stop shooting.  This is a very nice feature which, at one time, the lower priced, entry level, Nikon DSLR cameras did not have. I don't know if Nikon has introduced burst AEB in their entry level DSLR cameras.  IMO, burst AEB is exceptionally valuable when you are shooting hand-held and are using the AEB to nail the exposure.

 

Nikon D40: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/ND40/ND40A5.HTM See "No Exposure Bracketing"

 

WARNING:  When you have selected AEB on a Canon 1.6x DSLR camera (I don't know about the full frame models) the default camera setting will turn off AEB whenever the camera is shut off or if a memory card is switched.  I don't like this default.  I don't like the camera making any changes that I don't initiate.  I switch the camera from the default setting to a setting wherein I choose when the AEB is turned on and turned off.  This is done through the menu.

 

NOW:  If you want a series of more than three bracketed shots to combine into an HDR Image, you should be shooting on a tripod.  When you are tripod mounted, it is very easy to shoot three bracketed shots and then adjust your exposure with Exposure Compensation and shoot an additional three bracketed shots.

 

Along that same line I have found that selecting AEB with a -1 stop exposure compensation is a great way to shoot night city scapes.  The AEB at 1-stop intervals plus the -1 stop exposure compensation will result in a series of shots exposed as follows: As the meter reads; 1-stop below what the meter reads; and 2-stops below what the meter reads.  This usually results in at least one dead-on exposure because over-exposure is the bane of night photography.  It also usually provides three exposures that are good for HDRI compositing...

 

BYW:  If I use AEB for HDR imaging; I have the exposure set on aperture priority because I want all of the shots at the same f/stop.  However, if I am shooting three shot bursts just to nail the exposure down, I can shoot in Programmed, Aperture Priority or Shutter Speed priority.

 

Permalink Reply by Don Weber on April 4, 2012 at 7:06am

Hi Richard,

Thank you for such a great in-depth explanation of how AEB works.  I hadn't even thought of adjusting the exposure compensation in conjunction with use AEB to get a different set of exposure levels, particular for night shooting.  I really appreciate the time and effort into the explanation and details.